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Skin Whitening Applications – Why do some Chinese consumers still defend skin-brightening products that promise to still be a popular trend in China’s beauty industry — but could be hard to recover from?

When beauty giants L’Oréal, Unilever and Johnson & Johnson recently announced they would be replacing white lines in Asia — in response to the recent Black Lives Matter protests — it sparked a lot of comments in favor of white skin care. On both sides of the Chinese firewall. “Isn’t this discrimination against us?” A user wrote on Chinese site Weibo in response to a similar hashtag that now has more than 69 million views.

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“I’m Asian,” a Twitter user commented on the same page. “We use pure anti-aging and anti-blemish products. We don’t discriminate.” “I think Asian women’s [knowledge of] white skin started [long] long ago […] before [Caucasians] came to our countries,” added another.

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As in many Asian countries, whitening is still part of many people’s skin care routine in China. Among other things, debates in China about suspension seem to suggest that many users believe the practice is separate from racial issues. So why do some customers swear by it while others don’t?

In China — which has a shorter immigration history and a more multiracial population than countries like the United States — records of white-skinned people predate the country’s first contact with Europe, where gray skin was valued for being associated with the wealthy. And avoid physical work. Love of justice is found in art and even in ancient language. In his book

In ancient Chinese literature, women’s beautiful features were often compared to “snow”, “ice”, or “nephrite”, metaphors for “transparent, sweet, smooth and pure features”, writes Evelyn Yeung.

While tanning is a pastime in countries like the United States, the skincare consumers we spoke to agreed that tanning in China is more about ancient societies than anything else. Ashley Miao, a Chinese woman living abroad in France, said: “I believe this story is very old. “In the past the upper classes didn’t have to farm, so people imitated them and thought good skin was very important.”

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While China has historically been a hotbed of skin-whitening products, Yeung points out that the prevalence of these products in today’s market may have more to do with consumerism and beauty. As Korean beauty took the world by storm, for example, Chinese consumers focus on South Korean celebrities and products to learn how to use their skin to make the “snow” look good.

In the Asia-Pacific region, considered the most lucrative market for beauty products, China accounts for 40% of sales in Asia, while Japan and Korea account for 21% and 18%, respectively, according to a Future 2017 report. Market statistics, different demographics can help these numbers. In the Chinese beauty market, skin care is one of the fastest growing sectors, with particular emphasis on sun protection and anti-aging products.

Helen Huang, a 21-year-old college student in Shenzhen, says her daily skin regimen consists only of Shiseido Anessa sunscreen, which contains the whitening compound M-tranexamic acid. Among the young Chinese consumers we spoke to, many said that although they want to protect their skin from the sun in their daily diet, they don’t immediately seek out cleansing products. However, products with white and “bright” reflections are so common that it is impossible to avoid them in skin care.

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“I like skin lightening products because I think yellow skin is ugly,” says Huang, before quoting an old Chinese proverb: “One white color hides a hundred blemishes” (一白遮百丑). “Whiter skin looks younger, tighter and sharper,” she adds.

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Some of the women we spoke to felt that yellow skin seemed “imperfect,” that pale skin made people look younger and “brighter,” and that pale skin was better for hiding “imperfections” like wrinkles; Discoloration, sun spots and dark circles under the eyes.

Some consumers go beyond sun protection by investing in skin brightening products. Ashley Tang, a student at Wuhan University, says she uses supplements, lotions and sunscreen as part of her diet.

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For these women, the perceived benefits of the drug outweigh the risks. Much has been written in countries such as the US and UK about the link between skin whitening products and mercury poisoning, as well as other possible side effects such as skin thinning, irritation, discoloration and premature aging.

The terms “bright”, “white”, “shiny” and “white” are used in different ways,” said Dr. “These are advertising terms used by different companies, so they must conform to the regulations of each country. But by itself, it does not mean much or any product or agent. does not imply existence.”

The term can vary depending on the country where the product is sold – often a product containing vitamin C is sold as “white” in China but the translation in the West is “bright”, even if it is a mixture of the two. They are all the same.

“Bleaching” and “bleaching” products often use the same ingredients to lighten the skin by reducing the amount of melanin, which is genetically determined, Samazadeh explains. Dr. Soeun Cho, a professor of dermatology at Seoul National University College of Medicine, told CNN in 2018 that “because Asian skin has more melanin than Caucasian skin,” inflammation from some white matter can “lead to hyperpigmentation or hyperpigmentation.” A few months to forever.

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(美白针) sold in beauty clinics combine skin injections with products that promise to “brighten” or brighten the skin — a practice that prompted an FDA warning in 2018.

Managing such products in China is considered one of the most difficult across Asia. Although one Shanghai hospital we contacted said the drug was “not approved by the government” and therefore not offered, another hospital offered meibaizhen under the name “Full Body Bleaching” (电影美白约线) and assured us the procedure was safe.

It’s worth noting that not everyone in China accepts the pressure to be honest. Flora Yeh, 24, who works at a cosmetics company, said she had never wanted to lighten her skin, although she admitted she thought about it from time to time. “My skin would probably be better if it was a little brighter,” she says. “But I never bothered to buy such things.” She said she never received comments from friends or family about her skin color, only feeling the need to comment when it was “black or blemished” due to lack of sleep or illness. “I believe that any skin should be considered ‘normal’ unless you have a medical problem.

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The incremental steps taken by Johnson & Johnson, Unilever and L’Oreal show their awareness of the role they can play in spreading these products to the Asian skincare market. According to Daxue Consulting, in 2018, international companies such as Procter & Gamble and L’Oréal captured nearly 50% of the Chinese cosmetics market share alone. (These advertisers were not immediately available for comment.) While multinational companies face problems promoting brand loyalty in other Asian countries such as India, the same companies in China embrace the promise.

While institutions and traditional media have played a major role in this, social media has helped perpetuate this trend. Chinese photo editing platform Meitu, which has 282 million monthly users from its app, says more than half of photos shared on its platform use its filters — which until recently allowed for eye plucking, face slimming, chin enhancement and whitening filters. .

Jiang Fan writes in the New Yorker that in nine years of operation, Meetu has “changed the face of people a lot.

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